Arise

Fashion for the body freed from gravity.

2023

"Arise" was created as the thesis collection for a Fashion Design MFA at the Fashion Institute of Technology. It is a statement on how our collective lifestyles will change in the future. The premise behind the garments is that humans will visit environments outside of Earth's atmosphere and therefore must be designed to enhance movement in zero gravity.

Aesthetic and constructional details are inspired by kites, the oldest manmade aerial device, and zero-gravity flight indicators, objects that highlight the transition from 1g to 0g. Blossoming embellishments embody the floating nature of these indicators. Variable opacity fabrics and feminine-focused silhouettes combine to make ethereal fashion for the new frontier.

The research drew on conversations with aerospace engineers and space-fashion pioneers, from Helen Sharman's firsthand account of movement aboard Mir, to Barbara Brownie's scholarship on how zero gravity transforms the relationship between body and garment. Nikolai Moiseev and Ted Southern of Final Frontier Design shared insights on pressure-suit ergonomics and decompression that informed the adaptive patternmaking, while Daniel Wurtzel's kinetic air sculptures, fabric suspended and animated by invisible currents, offered a poetic model for how garments might behave when freed from gravity. Dialogue with Nick Cienski, original designer of the Virgin Galactic spacesuit, confirmed that dignity across every orientation, and designing for transformation, not just destination, would be central to the work.

A version of this collection would evolve into Rhododendrons, which was designed for and tested aboard a parabolic flight, bringing the zero-gravity premise of Arise from concept into lived experience.

Out of the Present (Andrei Ujică, 1995). The vision for Arise begins with the ephemeral beauty of Helen Sharman's pink ruffled jumpsuit worn aboard Mir space station.

Parachute canopy reference Zero-gravity EVA reference Kite folding reference
Kite spine construction diagram Kite folding technique Kite spine detail sketch

In addition to texts on aerial devices, interviews with aerospace engineers and space-fashion pioneers informed the research.

Research interview Research interview
Research interview Research interview

Designing a second skin to support the body in zero gravity. Adaptive patternmaking was studied to adjust for the postural and fluid changes the body undergoes in weightlessness.

Ergonomics, body volume redistribution in microgravity Neutral body posture, joint angles in microgravity
Ergonomics research, body movement study Ergonomics research, movement analysis Ergonomics research, body mechanics
Parametric coding, ruffle pattern output Parametric coding, expanding ruffle simulation

Endless combinations of panels were generated to create ribbons engineered to enhance motion.

Look development sketches on kraft paper Look development sketchbook Parametric design process
Fabric petal sorting Blossom detail
Design development detail Design development process Materials development
Development detail Material exploration
Design development detail Design development detail
Design development detail Design development detail
Construction detail Construction detail Construction detail
Construction detail Construction detail

Trampolines were used to test garment kinetics. Captured in slow motion for accurate zero-gravity visualization.

Shoot image Shoot image
Shoot image Trampoline shoot, mid-air
Thesis presentation
Thesis presentation Thesis presentation

Presenting the work in front of esteemed industry and academic leaders.

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NYFW September 2023

Credits

DesignDeborah Won
Presented atNYFW September 2023
ResearchBarbara Brownie, Spacewear: Weightlessness and the Final Frontier
Benjamin Scully, Former Director, Nike
Christophe Guberan, Industrial Designer, MIT Self-Assembly Lab
Daniel Wurtzel, Kinetic Air Sculpture
Helen Sharman, Seize the Moment
Nick Cienski, Original Designer, Under Armour × Virgin Galactic Spacesuit
Nikolai Moiseev, Chief Engineer & Designer, Final Frontier Design
Ted Southern, President & CEO, Final Frontier Design
Year2023